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Breaking the Ice

 
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leathernsteel
Lieutenant SG


Joined: 07 Jun 2011
Posts: 196
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:50 am    Post subject: Breaking the Ice Reply with quote

Hello all, I'm Johnson. I have some experience in painting miniatures but they have all been figures of people for DnD games. I am pretty well pleased with my ability to do those; however, I have never successfully painted a starship mini. This is where I will need help and advice from you. For example, I plan to use decals which I have never attempted before. In a few days I will upload pics of some of my figurines to my photobucket account and link it here so you can take a look and know where I'm coming from skill level wise. I have purchased a Federation CC and a Klingon D7 from the ADB storefront that I will be working with to learn the ropes. Thank you all in advance for your patience and advice! Very Happy
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leathernsteel
Lieutenant SG


Joined: 07 Jun 2011
Posts: 196
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a link to my photobucket page and examples of some figurines I have painted.


http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/j446/leathernsteel/Figurines/
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4467
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the wonderful world of SFU minis... which is about to become even more wonderful (Starline 2500)

I saw the minatures on your phtoobucket page. They look very nice.
You obviously have the basics down and many of the techniques used on those will translate onto the Starline minis as well.

I'm getting ready for Origins right now, but once I return - I'll get you some links to a couple of topics that discuss the basics of starship prep / painting. After that, the real discussions can begin. Wink
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leathernsteel
Lieutenant SG


Joined: 07 Jun 2011
Posts: 196
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up, Scoutdad!

I think where I'll need the most help is with the correct way to apply decals.
One thing that I do that is unusual with my painting is that I use black primer. I like to work with a black background because it becomes easier to create contrast and depth.

I'm extremely excited about the 2500 series! Did I get involved with mini's at the right time or what!? I got only a couple of 2400 series to learn with and once I've got it down, I get to play with the 2500's for my serious collection!

Although I'm insanely jealous of you getting to go to the Origins convention! Mad

Please give us a sit rep of how it went when you get back. Maybe someday I'll get to attend that as well.
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4467
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

leathernsteel wrote:
Thanks for the heads up, Scoutdad!

I think where I'll need the most help is with the correct way to apply decals.

The decals are actually pretty easy to apply.
Two main methods:
Both require a gloss coat to the mini beforehand. This fills in the micro-voids left in the surface ofthe paint and provides a smoother finish.
1) Water. Soak the waterslide decals in lukewarm water for 15 to 20 seconds and the decal will slide off the backing. I use that time to lightly brush the area the decal will be placed with warm water to facilitate repostioning.
Pick the decal out ofthe water with a pair of tweezers, use the sme brush you aready have water on to slide the decal off the backing and onto the mini. Position as needed and then use a small cotton swab [Q-tip to y'all southerners] to remove the excess water... allow to dry and then clear coat again to protet the decal.
2) Micro-sol / Micro-Set. Basically the same as above, but you're using chemical solvents to release the decals. the big advantage to this method is that the chemicals soften the decal and allow it to conform to fine decals more readily.
Not a big issue on the relatively flat 2400 line, but with the new 2500 line - it could become important.

Quote:
One thing that I do that is unusual with my painting is that I use black primer. I like to work with a black background because it becomes easier to create contrast and depth.

That's not all that unusual. Many of my fantasy minis were primed with black and then painted so as to provide shadowing and contrast. I also prime many of my Starline stuff with black... Orions, Tholians, Gorn, Klingons.
The others get a white primer simpoly because I airbrush the base coat on to avoid brush strokes and that effectively negates the contrast provided by the black primer.

Quote:
I'm extremely excited about the 2500 series! Did I get involved with mini's at the right time or what!? I got only a couple of 2400 series to learn with and once I've got it down, I get to play with the 2500's for my serious collection!

It's alwaysthe right time for minis. And I've only got a coupe of 2400 minis, too. A couple of each type... in each compound [lead / pewter / P-65]... painted for each border fleet... from each Starline line... Rolling Eyes

Quote:
Although I'm insanely jealous of you getting to go to the Origins convention! Mad

It may be the last time for a while... Crying or Very sad

Quote:
Please give us a sit rep of how it went when you get back. Maybe someday I'll get to attend that as well.

I'll be glad to update everyone.
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leathernsteel
Lieutenant SG


Joined: 07 Jun 2011
Posts: 196
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you for the quick response!

On the second method, do you still need to spray fixative on it after you've applied the "decal set" solution?

Other question, is a matt finish spray coat okay instead of a gloss finish?
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4467
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1: Yes. It'll still need a clear coat to protect the finished product.

2: A gloss coat is required prior to decal application. The dull-coat leaves the same texture as paint. I still dull-coat mine after I finish painting them; however.
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