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WIP Starline 2500s

 
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Nerroth
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 1575
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 3:18 am    Post subject: WIP Starline 2500s Reply with quote

I will try to take more pics once I have some actual daylight to work with; but here's a look at my WIP 2500-series FastHawk, the RIS Aestus Estus.







I named the ship after the sword used by a character in an RPG on the PlayStation Portable; this pic shows the blade beside its new namesake:




The red looks a little different in person than in the pics; I'm not quite sure how to better capture the true colour of the hull. Oh well.
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Nerroth
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not all that bright outside, but it technically counts as daylight, so...

(The below are all works in progress; I'm not comfirtable enough to decalre any of them to be done and dusted, and that's not counting the decals I'm somewhat nervous about putting onto some of them.)


Here are a few more pics of the Aestus Estus:







This one shows it alongside a Fed NCF. (The Fed ship is blurry, but I wanted to post it anyway since the Rom came out well in it.)



The NCF has soem decals waiting to go onto it once (if) I get it into some sort of decent shape. The decals I got are for the NCC-1382 Simon Bolivar, which historically was a new (fast) light cruiser instead; I wanted to have a set in case Mongoose ever do a proper NLF mini, and I suppose I could consider this ship to be what the Bolivar might have looked like had it been upgraded to an NCF.



Outside of the Alpha Octant, the four other ships I've been working on are ear-marked for service in the Federal Republic of Aurora:



The CL, which has decals waiting to turn it into the CL-05 RSS Andoria, seems to photograph a little better than the other white WIP ships. (Not that this is saying much, I suppose.)



Here it is alongside the CR Throne of Ozymondas.



The Throne might need a do-over; I'm not sure I'm on the right track with the colour scheme, plus it doesn't take well to photographs as it stands.





And these ships are set to become the FF-08 RSS Bremen and the FFE-01 RSS Hessen.




Apologies if they aren't the cleanest of paint jobs so far; I've been away from my paintbrush for quite a while b the ime I started work on these, not that I was much of an expert at my best in any case.
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Nerroth
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for taking so many pictures of the same ship; but I've been experimenting as much with ways to take images of it as with the actual painting itself.

(These ones were with a plain white sheet of printer paper laid out on the top of my notebook as background.)















Do these images come out any better than the others?
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Bill Stec
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Joined: 25 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of paint are you using? It appears to me that you may be using some sort of enamel paint. I find enamels to be too thick, they obscure too much detail, and they have a "shiny cheap" look to them.

You might consider trying some good acrylic paints, like Reaper, Citadel, Vallejo, or even Tamaiya makes some for models. Cleanup is easier, drying is generally faster, and you will probably get even nicer results.
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djdood
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Joined: 01 Feb 2007
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Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enamel paints are fine, properly applied. They are all I use for basecoats (so I can use acrylics for detailing with no thinner/solvent interaction). However, I spray my basecoats, which involves thinning the paint down and applying it in multiple light coats.

Gloss (shiny) paints are a good thing, if the mini is to eventually receive water-slide decals. That, or a good coat of gloss clear.

Regardless of decals or not, for any mini that is going to be handled, a final coat of matt or dull clear is a very good idea. This is to both to dull down the shiny "toy like" look of the paints and also to give more protection to the mini's finish. It's imperative to clear coat if there are decals applied, as they need to be sealed-on to really stay put during handling.
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Nerroth
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The paints I use are from Tamiya; I used their white surface primer to base coat the Fed/FRA ships, a set of their acrylics for the paint work, and a grey Gundam Marker for some of the panel lines. I had originally got the paints to work on model kits like this, but I don't have any other paints on hand right now to work on the 2500s. (Unfortunately, the downtown location for the hobby store I bought the paints from has been re-purposed away from modelling kits; they keep that side of their business further out in the depths of suburbia. So, I might have to make do with what I have on hand for the time being.)

Not all of the colours I have on hand have lasted all that well since the last time I used them, however. Some, like the reds and greens, still mix and apply well, whereas others like purple and brown do not. And white, at his point, is the worst of all, though I've never had a lot of luck with that colour anyway.


It's probably an indictment of my lackluster painting skills that my work with acrylics looks like it was done with enamels instead...


The clear paint I have is Tamiya X-22; when I looked it up on their site, it was listed under their gloss acrylics; would that make it a no-no for pre-decal work?
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Bill Stec
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nerroth wrote:

Not all of the colours I have on hand have lasted all that well since the last time I used them, however. Some, like the reds and greens, still mix and apply well, whereas others like purple and brown do not. And white, at his point, is the worst of all, though I've never had a lot of luck with that colour anyway.


It's probably an indictment of my lackluster painting skills that my work with acrylics looks like it was done with enamels instead...


What made me think enamels was the sheer glossiness of everything. It screamed "Testor brush-on enamel" to me.

Did you use a spray primer, or a brush primer? I always use a spray one.

I'm not quite so fortunate as to have access/skill with a airbrush, so my painting skills are not likely to be as good as some other folk I've seen here.

You know, we all started out as noobs to painting. I bet none of us would be proud of our first works as compared to what we do currently. Smile You keep practicing, and the skill will come with time. I still have much to learn, personally, and I'm nowhere near as good as some here. You just do the best you can and enjoy it.
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marcus_aurelius
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Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use spray cans for priming and the base coat.
I do not have the ability to hand paint primer or the base coat properly.

Sometimes I use Testors enamel sprays and sometimes I use Tamiya acryllic sprays, it just really depends upon the exact color I want. The Tamiya acryllics seem to spray more smoothly for me in general.

I also prefer gloss colors or a gloss coat for decals.

I always finish by doing a few layers of dullcoat spray to protect and get rid of most of the glossy look so it really doesn't seem to matter whether I sprayed an acryllic or enamel base coat.
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djdood
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Joined: 01 Feb 2007
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Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any gloss paint is acceptable for decals. A sprayed gloss clear-coat over the paint is even better. What is not ideal is a matte or dull finish; the "grain" in those causes "silvering" of the decals (micro air pockets and lack of adhesion). They might stick, but not well and will look poor.

Unfortunately, the uneven surface of a brushed-on paint makes applying decals harder than it needs to be, but it can certainly be done. I would highly advise having setting solution handy for those and plan to be spending some time smoothing the decals over the brush strokes.

My own personal ideal finish for an SFU mini -
Primer: Tamiya Fine White spray primer (rattlecan) [dark hull colors use Krylon black or gray primer]
Base (hull color) coat: Testors or Humbrol gloss enamels, airbrushed
Gloss Clear Coat: Airbrushed Future acrylic floor polish or Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic spray [only if-needed; usually not]
Details painting: Tamiya acrylics, brush-painted
Decals: Tenneshington Decals [of course Wink ], applied using MicroSol and MicroSet solutions, as-needed.
Final Protective Clear Coat: [varies, but usually] Krylon Matte Finish varnish spray.

Don't be intimidated by airbrushes. The dual-action pro models are indeed a bit finicky, spendy, and take some real practice to learn. However, Aztec and Testors both sell really cheap plastic, single-action, airbrushes that are as easy to use as a rattlecan. I still use the cheap Aztec airbrush for most basecoating, as it does the job fine and is vastly easier to clean than my expensive Badger dual-action.
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trynda1701
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Joined: 17 Mar 2008
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Location: BR "Swanmay"

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a link to the airbrush you use then, Will?

Mark
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Nerroth
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I started chipping away at the 2500-series SparrowHawk I got with my C6 haul.

This is how the SPA looked after the white primer:



At this stage, the first (very) rough pass has it like this:





One difference between this ship and the FFH is that I didn't use white primer on the latter (so far as I recall):





And I totally screwed up the SPA's belly bird etching, sadly:




At this point, I'm not sure whether to leave the white areas where they are, or to simply paint them red also (and try to think of a new colour to go on the raised area on the secondary hull inside the modules).

I do feel rather embarrassed at how badly I messed up the bird etching, though. Sigh.
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djdood
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trynda1701 - Sorry I missed your question, from clear back last year.

Here is a link to the cheap airbrush:
http://www.amazon.com/Testors-4030-Amazing-Airbrush-Set/dp/B0013MURE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397262954&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+airbrush+paint
(it used to be an Aztec-branded thing. Testors bought the rights at some point)

$25 USD and you're off and airbrushing.

This is not a fancy airbrush with adjustable feed and air volume.

This is a simple, plastic thing, with a on/off trigger, fed from a can of "canned air" and small siphon bottles of paint.

Fundamentally, it just gives you the ability to mix your own colors and thinness of paint, and apply it as you would from a "rattle can". Being able to thin the paint down helps make it much better than overly-thick rattle can painting though and you can get nice, clean and even coats. For basic base color coats on minis, it is plenty good.

I've noticed these are even for sale at my local "Kroger" store ("Fred Meyer", in my case) and Micheal's Arts and Crafts.

Gary -

The only way to learn is by doing. Don't beat yourself up over a paint job that you aren't happy with.

If it's "good enough" for a game piece, don't waste energy worrying on it. If it's not "good enough", then strip the paint and start over, taking the lessons-learned forward.

I couldn't tell you how many minis I've "sent to the dip", for disappointments big and small.

There are no "rules" to what a paint job should look like. Everyone has different standards and needs.

I've gamed with people who left them bare-metal with a stripe of nail polish, some who dunked them in model kit paints, some who even slopped on a quick coat of housepaint. They were fleet/army-builders and viewed them as little more than markers for the game. Enough color to be able to tell them apart was all they felt was needed.

I came from a scale-model building background, so my personal fit, finish, and detailing standards are on the opposite end of that spectrum. I like my minis to be tiny scale models. I also know some of my fellow gamers would think I was crazy for spending so much time and effort, per ship.

To get to a Tony Thomas or Jim Lewis level of minis mastery is not something that happens with 4 or 5 figures, in 10 to 20 years. Guys at their skill level have done dozens, if not hundreds, and the experience from all that shows. I'm sure Tony would be the first to say that the first dozen or so that he did don't look anywhere near as nice as the most-recent dozen. I know it's certainly true in my case.
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Scoutdad
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Joined: 09 Oct 2006
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Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dood... wrote:
I'm sure Tony would be the first to say that the first dozen or so that he did don't look anywhere near as nice as the most-recent dozen. I know it's certainly true in my case.


Funny you bring that up.
I found a box of my D&D minis from the early 80s a few weeks ago.
I took pictures of one or two of my favorites...
Then I stripped them...
Now I'm going to repaint them, using the same colors but with 20+ years experience in between - then I'm going to post the photos side-by-side on my photobucket site.
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Scoutdad
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Joined: 09 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

djdood wrote:
...with a stripe of nail polish...


Haha. Another funny yet disturbingly prophetic comment.
The funny part is that I probably own more fingernail polish and eye-shadow than my wife does.

Nail polish(when properly thinned) provides an incredibly vivid color with a high gloss finish.
Eye-shadow can be 'dry-brushed' across a miniature to provide metallic high-lights. I use it on the scales of all of my dragons.
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djdood
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I played a guy once, who had his Tholians done up in shimmery gold nail polish. It was applied way too thick, but it still had a neat look to it.
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