Paints and minis
Moderators: mjwest, Albiegamer
Hi, everyone. I've been lurking and reading this thread. I've appreciated and taken a good chunk of the advice on here, but I did have a question I was hoping someone would answer.
My wife, kind soul that she is, has been painting away on some of the minis, and so far, they're coming out really well. We're both new at this, though. The other day, I bought some GW spray "matte varnish" to use as a sealer/clear coating to protect the paint jobs (and stop me if I'm not using the right thing 'cause we haven't used it yet
), but I also have some decals for some of the features on the ships. So the question is, as silly as it might be, sealer first before decals, correct?
-- Jim
My wife, kind soul that she is, has been painting away on some of the minis, and so far, they're coming out really well. We're both new at this, though. The other day, I bought some GW spray "matte varnish" to use as a sealer/clear coating to protect the paint jobs (and stop me if I'm not using the right thing 'cause we haven't used it yet
), but I also have some decals for some of the features on the ships. So the question is, as silly as it might be, sealer first before decals, correct?-- Jim
You have to coat the mini after the decals, or they tend to peel off with use.
I tend to clear coat before and after the decals. Since I have a tendency to use multiple, blended colors that take a while to finish, I often wind up with multiple coats of sealer.
The sealer is like the paint though, I find that several light coats work better than one thick coat. I tend to base coatand then seal. Afterwards, I apply any extravagant details (i.e. blended base coat, flames, tiger stripes, leopard spots, etc.) and then another light coat of sealer. After that, I paint the fine stuff (i.e., weapons, engines, windows, hatches, sensors, etc.) and then another coat of sealer.
Then decals, and 2 more light coats of sealer. It may sound like a lot, but each coat is more of a misting than a heavy shellacing and over the years (short of dropping them on a concrete floor), I've never had the paint on a miniature chip or peel off.
My two quatloos worth,
I tend to clear coat before and after the decals. Since I have a tendency to use multiple, blended colors that take a while to finish, I often wind up with multiple coats of sealer.
The sealer is like the paint though, I find that several light coats work better than one thick coat. I tend to base coatand then seal. Afterwards, I apply any extravagant details (i.e. blended base coat, flames, tiger stripes, leopard spots, etc.) and then another light coat of sealer. After that, I paint the fine stuff (i.e., weapons, engines, windows, hatches, sensors, etc.) and then another coat of sealer.
Then decals, and 2 more light coats of sealer. It may sound like a lot, but each coat is more of a misting than a heavy shellacing and over the years (short of dropping them on a concrete floor), I've never had the paint on a miniature chip or peel off.
My two quatloos worth,
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
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wrongway klingon
- Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:47 pm
- Location: Cumbria, UK
Varnish
I found some acrylic cork tile floor sealant at the hardware store. you have to dilute it at least 50% and apply it in thin coats. it is phaser proof, well almost.
As for oil paint they are great for subtle blending but their drying time is slow compared to acrylic, so unless you are going to paint highly detailed portraits on starships (Romulans or Kzinti) give them a miss.
As for oil paint they are great for subtle blending but their drying time is slow compared to acrylic, so unless you are going to paint highly detailed portraits on starships (Romulans or Kzinti) give them a miss.
CeramCoat and Folk Art (both are cheap, generic brands available at Wal-Mart or any other big-box retailer) havea product called "Blending Gel" that is an extender for water-based acrylic paints. I have used it with Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, CeramCoat, Polly-S, and nearly everyother brand of acrylic paint. It doesn't provide the drying time of my oil paints, but depending on how much of it you mix withth acrylics - I've gotten as much as an hour drying time before.
That's wht I use to blend the colors on my Lyrans, my rmulans, my orions, and even the 'mechs and DND minis from those other games.
That's wht I use to blend the colors on my Lyrans, my rmulans, my orions, and even the 'mechs and DND minis from those other games.
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
This is my standard retort for that statement.Scoutdad wrote:As I have told my Boy Scout troop and my kids repeatedly, "There is no such thing as a stupid question!."
(Do not click on the link if you are easily insulted by sarcastic humor. If you do click on the link, be sure to check the others out.)
Federation Commander Answer Guy
I'd like to give a fair warning about GW Matte Sealant. It's very good and hard wearing, but it can cloud on you. Pay attention to the ambient conditions when you use it. If there's a great temperature difference between the can, the figure, and the air where you're spraying, the sealant will cloud on the miniature and give you a frosty finish. This can also happen if the humidity is too high.
The Armory flat sealant has the same problem, but I've never had it with Teastor's Dull Coat.
jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...
The Armory flat sealant has the same problem, but I've never had it with Teastor's Dull Coat.
jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...
I didn't even think about that aspect of it. I've had to strip down and repaint way too many minis that were sprayed with GW sealant. I've never had that problem with teh Armory matte sealant adn much prefer he Testors brand "Dull-Coat". I just can't find the "Dull-Coat" in middle TN any longer, so I have to use the Armory stuff. That's one of the reasons for the multiple, light coats rather than one thick coat. It sems to help reduce the amount of frosting from the clear coat.jmt wrote:I'd like to give a fair warning about GW Matte Sealant. It's very good and hard wearing, but it can cloud on you...
jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
A little trick from modelling tanks and jets....
Rather than use a sealant before you apply decals, you can use a fine coat of Future Floor Polish. This stuff is modeler's gold. It takes a while to cure but when it does, it makes a very smooth surface to avoid decal silvering. Then you can kill the glossy look with a matte sealant.
Future also makes clear parts shine better as it fills in the little scratches that often occur in such parts...not that this helps with starship minis, but there ya go.
Maldus
Rather than use a sealant before you apply decals, you can use a fine coat of Future Floor Polish. This stuff is modeler's gold. It takes a while to cure but when it does, it makes a very smooth surface to avoid decal silvering. Then you can kill the glossy look with a matte sealant.
Future also makes clear parts shine better as it fills in the little scratches that often occur in such parts...not that this helps with starship minis, but there ya go.
Maldus
Matthew Cicero
Heroism is endurance for one moment more.
Heroism is endurance for one moment more.