The 2400's

Scoutdad · Post by **Scoutdad** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:41 am

As long as they emergency evacuated the FoW minis (poor German Panzer Grenadiers), and the AD&D minis, and the WH stuff, and the 'mechs, and the Modern Micro, and the WWI / WWII aircraft, and the BoP minis, and the B5 minis, and the...

You get the picture.

leathernsteel · Post by **leathernsteel** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:08 am

With the 2400's, more specifically from squadron box #2, how can you tell the difference between the Klingon D7 model and the D6 model?

IainMcG · Post by **IainMcG** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:26 am

You can't, it's the same model

AFAIK the only 'real' external difference is the lack of wing phasers on the basic D6.

OGOPTIMUS · Post by **OGOPTIMUS** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:08 am

That's correct. The only external difference is the wing phasers. Nice that the model is easily modified to the D6/D7/KR/K7R.

leathernsteel · Post by **leathernsteel** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:19 pm

Thanks for the input! I'll study the SSDs before I begin work on em.

Post by **Steve Cole** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:02 pm

What people have always done for the KR/D6 is to just paint over or file off the wing phasers (under the pointy front corners of the rear hull).

Mongoose is doing separate D6 and D7 models that are visually different.

leathernsteel · Post by **leathernsteel** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:36 pm

Steve Cole wrote:What people have always done for the KR/D6 is to just paint over or file off the wing phasers (under the pointy front corners of the rear hull).

Mongoose is doing separate D6 and D7 models that are visually different.

Thank you very much for the input, SVC, you just saved me a lot of pain and regret. I was going to file the phaser cannons off of the top of the rear hull.

I will still buy at least one of the 2500's, I can't really knock something until I have tried it, but I have just come up with a magnetic stand method that not only works very well with the 2400's but will be very effective with the 2500's as well. I will post details when I have more time.

Burning Chrome · Post by **Burning Chrome** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:55 am

Steve Cole wrote:Mongoose is doing separate D6 and D7 models that are visually different.

Any images to share regarding this intriguing statement?

Man I cannot wait to see these minis...

Post by **Steve Cole** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:03 pm

The images on the BBS for the D7 turned out to be the D6. Still having issues getting the belly of the D7 right for phaser arcs.

leathernsteel · Post by **leathernsteel** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:38 pm

I must admit, I'm still on the fence with the 2500's.

Shifting gears on you, this post is actually written if favor of the 2500's.

With the magnetic stand invention, I may have come up with a viable solution which will cause the larger scale of the 2500's to still work well with both Federation Commander and Star Fleet Battles games. it involves adding magnetic extensions onto the stands which will allow them to get closer on the game board without knocking each other over. The extensions are magnetic so they can be added in seconds. I will post pictures of the idea when I get the chance. Unfortunately, they will have to be taken with my crummy I-pod camera, but it will be enough to give you an idea of how well this will work. Logically, I cannot write off the 2500's at this point. From what I have read, they may end up being cheaper to buy than the 2400's.