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Help with K9R
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:15 am
by Spacecowboy87
The resin K9R that came with my squadron box has a warped, drooping boom. The "wingtips" are similarly droopy and would have the engines pointing upward a few more degrees than acceptable. But that doesn't matter, since I can't find a glue that will hold the pewter engines to the resin body. I'm using the same cyanoacrylate glue that I use on all-pewter minis, but its just not setting.
Any ideas on straightening warped resin, or a better glue? My disillusionment with the 2500s is just about maxxed out.
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:55 am
by djdood
Casting resins can usually be adjusted by dipping it for a while in very hot water (not boiling, but recently so) for a little while. Once it's softened, bend it to the shape it should be, then quickly immerse it in cold water to set it.
Be sure to wash whatever container you use. Hot resin may emit some nasties dissolved into the water.
Usually, the resin on these likes CA "super" glues. But, CA glues hate small surface areas that get a lot of stress from the side (like Klingon engines). For stress-prone joints like that, the "Scoutdad two-glue method" is a good idea. I'll let him detail it.
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:22 pm
by Scoutdad
I have assembled 4 Klingon C8s, so far...
(Same mini as the KC9R) With little or no difficulties.
as Will said, I use the "two-glue" method.
tony wrote:The "two-glue" method is actually quite simple, and works really well on the ST2500 Klingons.
Sand, clean, prep both sides of joint...
Mix a high-strength, slow-set, 2-part epoxy...
Apply epoxy to middle 75 - 80% of joint...
Using a toothpick, apply superglue to the outer 10% of each side of joint...
Assemble and hold in place...
The super glue will set relatively quickly, allowing you to set the piece aside and move onto another miniature. This enables the epoxy to slowly cure out and form a high-strength bond.
As you can see from photo number 3... the ST2500s are workable, so I hope this helps easy your disillusionment with them.
not that they are perfect, but the later models I've received are much better quality than the early releases were.
This gives me high hopes for the Gorn and Kzinti... and even more so, the Lyrans.
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:20 pm
by Spacecowboy87
I'm just spoiled by the idea of having slots to get parts to stay together. I've got Zocchi's that to this day have no glue at all

Thanks for the advice.
Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:04 pm
by Bill Stec
I've also found that the tighter the parts fit together, the more likely the superglue will bond correctly. Sometimes you need to file/sand a little bit to get the fit tighter, especially on the D6/D7/C7 series ships. D5s usually go together with no issues.
I use superglue gel. If I can get the joint to even hold a little bit, let it fully dry, turn the mini over, and put a nice bead of 2-part epoxy down the underside of the wing. Smooth with a Q-tip, let dry 24 hours.
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 2:46 pm
by NoBodie
I only had one engine that would not set at all. After trying everything i could think of, I cut a section of a staple, glued it to the wing, forming a V lip that the body could slip into. Once it set in place, I used modeling putty to cover the staple, gave it a nice shape, and did the other wing to even it out.
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:22 am
by OGOPTIMUS
NoBodie wrote:I only had one engine that would not set at all. After trying everything i could think of, I cut a section of a staple, glued it to the wing, forming a V lip that the body could slip into. Once it set in place, I used modeling putty to cover the staple, gave it a nice shape, and did the other wing to even it out.
Sounds like a typical SL2200 Klingon engine stabilization job. Any pics (in progress or otherwise)?
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 1:46 am
by NoBodie
Planning to start a new topic soon with , hopefully working links, to the location of all my miniatures to date.