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Need modeling advice re: use of gap filler/putty

 
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Jiraiya1969
Lieutenant JG


Joined: 17 May 2007
Posts: 81

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:29 pm    Post subject: Need modeling advice re: use of gap filler/putty Reply with quote

Having assembled my Klingon and Romulan box sets, done ships require some grip filler. Having never done staging like this before, I was wondering if anyone had some pointers for me.

Thanks in advance,

J69
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Jiraiya1969
Lieutenant JG


Joined: 17 May 2007
Posts: 81

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:40 pm    Post subject: Excuse me mods... Reply with quote

...but could someone move this post to the Miniature forum?

Thx

J69
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mjwest
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 3471
Location: Dallas, Texas

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Excuse me mods... Reply with quote

Jiraiya1969 wrote:
...but could someone move this post to the Miniature forum?

Done!
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djdood
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Joined: 01 Feb 2007
Posts: 2922
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure what you mean by "staging", so it's making it hard to understand what it is about using fillers and putties that you are wanting to know.

Do you have a specific issue/application that you want input on? Or, are you looking for a more-general "what is filler putty" type advice?
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Jiraiya1969
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Joined: 17 May 2007
Posts: 81

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:43 am    Post subject: What I meant to say... Reply with quote

...that I had 'never done' this before.

Thx,

J69

Using a smartphone keyboard is an exercise in zen, I'm here to tell you. Cool [/quote][/u]
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djdood
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Joined: 01 Feb 2007
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Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I had to check. Lots of folks use unique terms for things, and, for all I knew, "staging" was a local term for mounting the mini to the base. It happens; especially with the Brits (who would be quick to point out that I speak "American", not proper "English").

In regards to the basics on filler -

There are several kinds. Which one to use depends on the geometry of the "gap"; how big, crevice between parts or missing chunk on an edge, etc.

Lots of folks seem to like Squadron White for general-purpose filling. Testors model putty is similar. Both are basically talc in a plastic like binder with a solvent to keep it liquid.

These work well for filling in surface defects like "orange peel texture" on metal minis. They also can fill minor gaps between parts (such as Klingon engine/hull joints).

There's not a lot of trick to using them. Jest squeeze some out of the tube and use a tool (popsicle sticks work well, toothpicks for small stuff) to work it into the gap and then smooth the surface flush with its surroundings. They can usually be smoothed further by wiping them with a solvent like rubbing alcohol.

They tend to shrink though as they cure, so sometimes it takes more than one application to get them to completely fill a gap.

They're not so good for filling unsupported gaps. Things like missing chunks in the edges of Fed saucers, etc. The first good bump on the game board will probably knock them loose.

For unsupported openings like that and also for really large gaps, two-part epoxy putties (often referred to as "greenstuff" from their color after mixing yellow and blue components) are better.

They're a pain to work with though. They have to be mixed up, as-needed and they're sticky to everything, including tools and fingers. The upside is that they are tough. Once cured, it is epoxy plastic (actually tougher than the resin Mongoose uses for some of the Starline 2500 minis).

In both cases, the filler can be sanded after curing to make it truly flush and make gaps and seams invisible. In a few cases, it sometimes helps to use both types. One particular extreme case I fixed used epoxy putty to fill a really bad gap, blended the edges of the epoxy with Testors model putty, then used a really thick brush-on primer (Mr. Surfacer) to feather out the edges even more.
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Valander
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Joined: 22 Nov 2007
Posts: 26
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't done any Starline 2500 yet, but I do lots of other models. (I've got 3 fleet boxes sitting on my desk as my next project when a couple of other models I'm in process on get finished...)

Anyway, it does depend a lot on how big the gap is. For small stuff, you can use any "liquid" putty, like Squadron, but I usually use Vallejo plastic putty. It's water soluble, and has no nasty fumes like some of the other putties can have, and it's easy to work smooth with a wet brush. On larger gaps or sculpting, I usually use some form of epoxy putty, usually "brown stuff". To help keep it from sticking to everything you don't want it to, I usually get a little chapstick on my tools and fingers.

A really, really useful tool that I recently picked up are some very small clay shapers, which are basically solid silicone brushes. They work wonderfully for smoothing putties. You can find them at most art stores, or order from Dick Blick online (http://www.dickblick.com/products/royal-sovereign-clay-shaper-sets/). You don't typically need a full set, just the flat and bullet point should do fine. Cool thing is that the epoxy putties don't stick to these things at all, so they're kind of perfect for this work.
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Jiraiya1969
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Joined: 17 May 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went ahead and picked up a tube of Testors model putty for plastic models: can this be used with metal minis?

Also picked up some liquid green stuff from GW, and actually fixed up and primed the C8 in question. I'll post a WIP tomorrow.

J69
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djdood
Fleet Captain


Joined: 01 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Testors Putty is used pretty frequently and works fine on metal minis. I use it far more than Squadron White.
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Scoutdad
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Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4460
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's taken me a while to get around to commenting here, but now that I'm here - I see that most of my comments have been covered.

I use a variety of putties, epoxies ,and fillers. It really depends on the size of the gap being repaired... altough sometimes its also a matter of which tube I encounter first! Rolling Eyes

As Will said, if you're trying to fix a free-standing area - you need a two-part epoxy. The putties and fillers do not have the strength to stand up to the task.
If you're filling a gap where two pieces meet, there are several options. A gel type superglue can often be used to fill the gap that results from two mis-matched pieces although this method frequently requires sanding/filing of excess adhesive. I have had some luck using gel-type superglues sparingly and then applying a bit of putty to fill any gaps that remain.
I tend to rely on my Testors white contour putty whenever possible, simply because it's quick to apply (simply squeeze some onto a scrap of plastic and apply with a toothpick or popsicle stick, let dry, and sand), easy to sand (it's softer than the resin of the ST2500 so it sands away first), and its easy to hide with primer.
I use white primer more often than any other color and the Testors putty matches the primer color quite well.

I also use the Squadron brand green putty, but it leaves dark blotches underneath the primer and is harder to cover - so it's typically used on minis that will be primed grey or black.

I just recently obtained my first bottle of the GW liquid green stuff. So far, the only thing i've used it on is the joints in the wings of some Romulan ships, but it certainly seems to have performed admirably.

So, to recap:
Putties and fillers are great for fixing small gaps and divots but free-standing repairs and large gaps require a two part epoxy.

When repairing resins minis, be aware of how hard the repair material is.
It does no good to make a perfect repair with a two-part epoxy and then sand away all the surrounding resin while trying to shape the epoxy.

Gel type superglues can be used but often require sanding - see above.

Be aware of the color of the finished repair product. you do not want blotches of darker (or lighter) colors showing through your final paint coat.

Both putties and epoxies can be used on both metal and resin miniatures.
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