Hello,
As a player getting ready to switch to hexless movment I was woundering about using the down loadable turn gauges. It seams hard to be accurate then dealing with such small changes in heading:
Turn mode 1 =60 deg, 2=30 deg, 3=20 deg, 4=15deg, 5=12 deg, 6=10 deg, 7=8.5 deg, 8=7.5 deg per impulse moved.
So the diferance between most cruisers moving at speed 24 is 3 deg or less. This seams like a very small number to do accurately with the curved turn templates. Are there bertters ways? am I just too used to hex movement? Please if you have played with the hexless movement let me know what you think.
Daniel
What turning gauges work best?
Moderators: mjwest, Albiegamer
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Dal Downing
- Commander
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 1:43 pm
- Location: Western Wisconsin
I think you are just stuck in the Hex Rut Here. Turn gages represent how tight of a circle you can turn at what speed. I have found that by using Turn gages and rulers i have far more control over turning into a firing position than I had when I was at the mercy of a rigid 60 Degree turn being all or none. with Hex gages you can make perfect Figure "8s" or even draw a perfect letter "S"
Try this lay one of the Larger Gages on the Table move your Miniture 4 Increments along the Arc after finisihing the 4 Move flip the gage over so it is a mirror image of where it started now move 4 Increments notice anything?
Leaving the Hex Board behind is a bit of a challenge at first but i think you will find it is a much more fluid game once you do.
Try this lay one of the Larger Gages on the Table move your Miniture 4 Increments along the Arc after finisihing the 4 Move flip the gage over so it is a mirror image of where it started now move 4 Increments notice anything?
Leaving the Hex Board behind is a bit of a challenge at first but i think you will find it is a much more fluid game once you do.
-Dal
"Which one of you is the Biggest, Baddest, Bootlicker of the bunch?"
"I am."
"ARCHERS!!! THAT ONE!!!!"
"Which one of you is the Biggest, Baddest, Bootlicker of the bunch?"
"I am."
"ARCHERS!!! THAT ONE!!!!"
I agree with you Dal about how the movment is superior for the look and feel but my worry is with the accuracy of my thick fingers to make the turns with out "overturning" or "underturning" the ship while making the moves with the minatures. If the ship is only moving foreward 1" the differance between 10 deg and 12 deg is very small and I have trouble placing drone counters next to figs with out bumping them. So I was hoping for a more fool(me) proof way of making accurate turns.
Daniel
Daniel
I would talk to John Scheider from Battlegroup Cinncinati about hexless Fed Comm. As far as I can recall, they only play with the hexless system.
He can probably give you plenty of advice, tips, and tricks for losing the hexes w/o losing your sanity!
He can probably give you plenty of advice, tips, and tricks for losing the hexes w/o losing your sanity!
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
We have the same type of "uber-geek" computer nerds in our group.
Although the cost is prohibitive, they've determined a way to play Federation and Empire in a virtual environment (using multiple linked PCs and several VR faceplates) where no counters would be required (think, Cyberboard on steroids).
I'm sure the same could be done wiht Federation Commander - and I've seen some really great video of mega-sized (6' x 4'), table top displays with touch screens.
Although the cost is prohibitive, they've determined a way to play Federation and Empire in a virtual environment (using multiple linked PCs and several VR faceplates) where no counters would be required (think, Cyberboard on steroids).
I'm sure the same could be done wiht Federation Commander - and I've seen some really great video of mega-sized (6' x 4'), table top displays with touch screens.
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF
Department Head, ACTASF
Scoutdad said:
[quote]I would talk to John Scheider from Battlegroup Cinncinati about hexless Fed Comm. As far as I can recall, they only play with the hexless system.[/quote]
Since I haven't realy got much in the way or response I was woundering if there way some wat for me to send hin or some one from the group an email. I can't seem to find him on the boards but it's late and i'm tired.
Thanks,
Daniel
[quote]I would talk to John Scheider from Battlegroup Cinncinati about hexless Fed Comm. As far as I can recall, they only play with the hexless system.[/quote]
Since I haven't realy got much in the way or response I was woundering if there way some wat for me to send hin or some one from the group an email. I can't seem to find him on the boards but it's late and i'm tired.
Thanks,Daniel
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John Schneder II
- Lieutenant SG
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:06 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, OH
- Contact:
Sir Drake,
Sorry, been a bit busy the last few days completing a building project for my kids. You probably couldn't find me cause Tony's post had my name spelled wrong
No foul from Tony though, even the IRS got my name wrong one year.
About hex-less play: yes, here at Battlegroup Cincy it is all we play, and have for the last seven years (note, we mostly play SFB, but do play Fed Com from time to time). We (and by that I mean mostly myself), are graceless clods when it comes to moving ships and other units around on the map. My first solution was map boards covered in ceiling tile material. I made small miniatures for plasmas, shuttles, fighters, etc. and glued them to push pins then stuck them into the map. My second incarnation of the map boards is now magnetic. I sued magnetic primer on the boards, and put magnets onto the bottom of the various ship and other unit miniature.
For your turn gauges: we also had a problem with the flatness of the turn gauge, as well as its rather large width interfering with movement. Our solution was to photo-copy the turn gauges, then trim the so the were thinner across their width. I then traced that onto foam core board and cut them out. We now have turn gauges that are about 1/4 of an inch thick, and only about 1/4-1/2 of an inch wide. This makes them easier to place and pick up after movement. I also made ones that only have one or two movements (instead of the three), thereby also making them easier to slip in between the minis.
Our website is http://web.mac.com/zapski/ and I think we have some pics of them in action, thought they are all on the older push pin maps.
Feel free to contact me direct if you like, my e-mail address is in my profile.
--John
Sorry, been a bit busy the last few days completing a building project for my kids. You probably couldn't find me cause Tony's post had my name spelled wrong
No foul from Tony though, even the IRS got my name wrong one year.About hex-less play: yes, here at Battlegroup Cincy it is all we play, and have for the last seven years (note, we mostly play SFB, but do play Fed Com from time to time). We (and by that I mean mostly myself), are graceless clods when it comes to moving ships and other units around on the map. My first solution was map boards covered in ceiling tile material. I made small miniatures for plasmas, shuttles, fighters, etc. and glued them to push pins then stuck them into the map. My second incarnation of the map boards is now magnetic. I sued magnetic primer on the boards, and put magnets onto the bottom of the various ship and other unit miniature.
For your turn gauges: we also had a problem with the flatness of the turn gauge, as well as its rather large width interfering with movement. Our solution was to photo-copy the turn gauges, then trim the so the were thinner across their width. I then traced that onto foam core board and cut them out. We now have turn gauges that are about 1/4 of an inch thick, and only about 1/4-1/2 of an inch wide. This makes them easier to place and pick up after movement. I also made ones that only have one or two movements (instead of the three), thereby also making them easier to slip in between the minis.
Our website is http://web.mac.com/zapski/ and I think we have some pics of them in action, thought they are all on the older push pin maps.
Feel free to contact me direct if you like, my e-mail address is in my profile.
--John
One of the guys that sculpts the minis (Starline 2400) 
Thanks John,
[quote]: we also had a problem with the flatness of the turn gauge, as well as its rather large width interfering with movement. Our solution was to photo-copy the turn gauges, then trim the so the were thinner across their width. I then traced that onto foam core board and cut them out. We now have turn gauges that are about 1/4 of an inch thick, and only about 1/4-1/2 of an inch wide. This makes them easier to place and pick up after movement. I also made ones that only have one or two movements (instead of the three), thereby also making them easier to slip in between the minis. [/quote]
That was what I was looking for but didn't know what it was! Going to to get started make some tommorow. Thanks every one! If someone else has any other clever turn gauge ideas let us know please.
Thanks again John,
Sir Drake
[quote]: we also had a problem with the flatness of the turn gauge, as well as its rather large width interfering with movement. Our solution was to photo-copy the turn gauges, then trim the so the were thinner across their width. I then traced that onto foam core board and cut them out. We now have turn gauges that are about 1/4 of an inch thick, and only about 1/4-1/2 of an inch wide. This makes them easier to place and pick up after movement. I also made ones that only have one or two movements (instead of the three), thereby also making them easier to slip in between the minis. [/quote]
That was what I was looking for but didn't know what it was! Going to to get started make some tommorow. Thanks every one! If someone else has any other clever turn gauge ideas let us know please.
Thanks again John,
Sir Drake