Another cheap but effective modeling tool: Tooth Picks. You want the round ones that end in a fine point, but they can be excellent for painting very small details like weapons and the like. The vast majority of the work you see on my minis was done with toothpicks rather than a brush. The tooth pick doesn't hold much paint (which is good - you want to keep things small and under control anyway), and when its been used too much, you just toss it.
I also use them quite a bit for positioning decals.
Its gotten to the point that I can't build a model or mini without them.
How much does it cost?
Moderators: mjwest, Albiegamer
As you get into it I've found that a rapidiograph (technical pen) can let you do things a brush won't do. They're not cheap ($15+) but only one or two sizes are needed.
As for paints: You can go the cheap route but there are some colors that you just can't find in the "el cheapo" paints; mostly these are metallics and while they may have the color listed it won't work like the smaller jar. It is worth looking at gold/silver (I like Tamiya) paints for some of the detaling; they also make transparent red/blue/green/orange/yellow that looks very nice when painted over silver/gold paint. Gives a "gem" look to things. Works great for Fed. engines.
On a side note: I'm still using paints I've had for 10 years. I do miss a few that dried out/no longer made like the Polly-S metallic green/metallic blue paints.
As for decals: I'm cheap. I've used some of the ones that starfightergames puts out but I also have a pile of old Warhammer 40k decals that I use on my ships. I've found that this irritates the purists here when they see a Fed CA with Space Wolves decals and a Gorn with Dark Angels decals.
As for paints: You can go the cheap route but there are some colors that you just can't find in the "el cheapo" paints; mostly these are metallics and while they may have the color listed it won't work like the smaller jar. It is worth looking at gold/silver (I like Tamiya) paints for some of the detaling; they also make transparent red/blue/green/orange/yellow that looks very nice when painted over silver/gold paint. Gives a "gem" look to things. Works great for Fed. engines.
On a side note: I'm still using paints I've had for 10 years. I do miss a few that dried out/no longer made like the Polly-S metallic green/metallic blue paints.
As for decals: I'm cheap. I've used some of the ones that starfightergames puts out but I also have a pile of old Warhammer 40k decals that I use on my ships. I've found that this irritates the purists here when they see a Fed CA with Space Wolves decals and a Gorn with Dark Angels decals.
I'm definitely a purist, but I also think folks should do their minis up the way they see fit (I just happen to go "tv style" with mine).
Scoutdad's pink FedEx Courier is a good example of "creative license"
I loves me some decals and use them on most of my minis (and create a lot of them myself, with help from friends). Custom-printed decals can get spendy, but they are a luxury, not a requirement. Lots of folks get good results without them.
Scoutdad's pink FedEx Courier is a good example of "creative license"
I loves me some decals and use them on most of my minis (and create a lot of them myself, with help from friends). Custom-printed decals can get spendy, but they are a luxury, not a requirement. Lots of folks get good results without them.
Not to mention the Smokey and the Bandit freighters set, or the Lyran Pink Panther" CL, or the MTSU Blue Raiders set of an Orion BR, CR, LR...djdood wrote: Scoutdad's pink FedEx Courier is a good example of "creative license"
And as for the Radiograph pens... I have a full set that I've had for years (got them back in 1981 for a drafting class). I've used them for fine details on a few minis... butI've always had a problem with the ink running when exposed to an aersol solvent.
I get better luck using a long (1"+ bristle) scripting brush and thinned down acrylic paint.
Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
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Department Head, ACTASF