Help with decals

[Sergeant_Crunch]

Ok, it has been a loooooooong time since I've used waterslide decals (somewhere around 16~18 years). As I remember after cutting out the decal you put it into slightly warm water to separate the decal from the backing. I'm assuming that if the water is too hot there is potential for damaging the decal. Am I remembering correctly?

[djdood]

Cold works, but tepid is probably better (and easier to keep your fingers from getting cold in it).

I doubt decals would be damaged by water temperature. Any water that would would burn you first.

There's a bunch of other things to help make working with decals easier. Just post if you want to know more.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

Thanks. I've already got a layer of gloss sealer on them, so just wanted to make sure I was remembering correctly. With any luck I'll have a small collection of Fed and Klingon ships ready in the next couple days.

[Scoutdad]

Will is correct about water temperatures - anything hot enough to damage the transfer is most likely going to damage you, too. I have used cold warm, luke-warm water, even hot water for water-slide transfers with little or no problem. That having been said, I prefer water slightly above room temperature. It may be my imagination, but I feel that heating the transfer slightly allows it to conform to the part its being placed on slightly better.

Of course, micro-sol and micro-set will also do that for you (and probably better than warm water alone will), but peoples habits die hard.

Typically, I wash the mini with warm water after painting is complete (carefully, so as not to mar the paint). Many people like to wash a 75:25 mixture of future floor polish:water on the miniature at this stage (this provides a clean base for the decal to adhere to). The transfers should be trimmed as close to the image as is convenient and placed in the water for 15 to 30 seconds (too long will cause the transfer to slide off of the transfer while still in the water). I usually brush a bit of the warm-water onto the model in the place the transfer will go (this gives you the ability to reposition the transfer if it's slightly out-of-place). If repositioning is needed, carefully use a fine brush (dunked in water) to move the decal into place. Blob the excess water with a bit of tissue.. and allow it to throughly dry and clear coat the miniature again.

Take it from experience, clear coat again, after the transfers are in place. I forgot to do this to a Federation Heavy Cruiser I needed for a demo game one Saturday and after a couple of rounds of play, the guy playing the Fed moved the CA to a new hex, set it down, let go, and had the red pennant and hull numbers from one nacelle stuck to his thumb.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

The gloss I have on is a Future mix. That's my usual first coat of sealant for my gaming pieces, followed by enough coats of matte sealer to kill the shine, though this time decals will be sandwiched between.

Though these have nothing to do with the SFU, here's a gallery of my other miniatures so you have an idea at what level I'm painting. I consider myself an able painter but not spectactular.

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b285/Sergeant_Crunch/

[djdood]

"...able painter..."

You should change your screen-name to Sergeant Modest. Those are very good and you should be proud.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

Thanks. I'm quite proud of them and I've come a long way from my first minis.

[Archduke Russell John I]

I agree with DJ. I wish I had half that skill

[Scoutdad]

WOW! Those are impressive figures.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

I finally got around to applying some decals and have run across a problem of wrinkling. I did a Fed FF first, applied the decals and when I sprayed with my usual matte finish (Krylon Matte Sealer) the decals wrinkled up. Luckily I still read the ship's name on the saucer, but the decals don't look all that great.

So I applied the decals to the Constitution, but this time I added a slightly diluted coat of Vallejo Model Color gloss sealer, then sprayed with the Krylon matte. Same result though not as bad.

Should I switch to using a brush on matte sealer or does this problem not occur with other brands of aerosol can sealers?

[Scoutdad]

Or does this problem not occur with other brands of aerosol can sealers?

I use either Floquil brand (my favorite) or Armory brand sealer for most of my minis. I like the Floquil best (it seems to be a thinner, clearer sealer), but the only store in my area that carries it is owned by a local gamer and he has some of the oddest hours I've ever seen. [The sign on the door reads, "If I'm here, we're OPEN" but no actual hours of operation are posted!] The other not so FLGS has regular hours, but they only carry the Armory sealer.

Anyway, after that short digression, bak to the topic: I've never had any trouble with either of these brands. I did; however, use a different brand of sealer once - and had no end of problems. 2 Federation Heavy Cruisers, 2 Federation Destroyers, 1 Eldar Viper, and 2 D&D miniatures were clear-coated. Nothing happened to the paint, but the waterslide transfers on all 5 SFB minis and on the Eldar Viper wrinkled.
I immediately threw the sealer away - I can't even remember the brand name, only that is was in a blue / white can.


I had to completely strip the SFB minis and disassemble the viper enough to strip and repaint the cowling. After that, if I don't have Floquil or Armory sealer... the miniatures sit on he workbench until I can obtain some.

[djdood]

Never heard of that problem before. I just use a rattle-can of dullcoat from Fred Meyer (Kroger to you non-NW folks) and haven't had any problems with it. I do use Micro-Sol and Micro-Set on my decals during placement though (as well as using gloss enamel paints for my base coats).

[OGOPTIMUS]

I use Dullcote from Testors (probably way overpriced in reality), after using a flat color for the hull and a decal setting solution brushed over the decals after they've dried a bit. I usually apply a few coats decal setting solution and then a few light coats of Dullcote.

[Scoutdad]

Never heard of that problem before. I just use a rattle-can of dullcoat from Fred Meyer (Kroger to you non-NW folks) and haven't had any problems with it. I do use Micro-Sol and Micro-Set on my decals during placement though (as well as using gloss enamel paints for my base coats).

Will, what brand of gloss enamels do you use? I know a couple of other guys that use testors Model Master enamels with much success, but I can't seem to get any kind of enamel pait ot work. That's why I use the acrylic paints exclusively.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

I used Reaper's Master Series acrylic paints with a layer of slightly thinned Future as the base gloss coat . I've never had any problems with the Krylon matte sealer on my pieces that don't have decals. First time I've had any issues with it.