How can I tell the difference between a D6 and a D7

jmt · Post by **jmt** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 4:28 pm

I got the Klingon Border Klingon ships pack yesterday. It includes, among other wonderfulness, a D6 and a D7. For the life of me, I can't tell 'em apart. Is there any difference in the models?

jmt

Scoutdad · Post by **Scoutdad** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:24 pm

It's the same basic hull, so you use the same miniature. For simplicity, you call this one a D6 and that one a D7.

If you're really anal retentive, you can modify the 2 minis to more accurately match the ship card. This is what I did with my SFB minis. I removed the phaser bumps from the rear hull that don't match the D6 and then I painted the Phaser 1's one shade of grey and the and the phaser 2's a differnt shade. Of course, to maintain the effect, I then had to paint the phaser 3's a third shade of grey.

And the scale of the mini is so small that you really can't tell the difference anyway... but I know they're different.

Predator06 · Post by **Predator06** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:27 pm

Wing phasor mounts. (One tiny lump on the underside of each shoulder)

That is if the newer somewhat lamer casting of the D7 even bothers with such details. That would be the difference.

jmt · Post by **jmt** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:43 pm

Okay, so I wasn't going blind - I'll check for the wing phasers. Thanks,
jmt

dave · Post by **dave** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:46 pm

At least one iteration of these were labled as "D6/D7" on the blister card.
I'm painting my D6s a slightly lighter shade of grey and my D7C a slightly darker shade. That and labeling the bases.

Post by **Steve Cole** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:53 pm

Same mini is used for the D6, D7, D7C.

I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.

wedge_hammersteel · Post by **wedge_hammersteel** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:19 am

I believe there were various molds of the D7 made throughout SFB/FC. They are not all the same size. Just slight size differences. If you are able to find the different types, you could make the smaller one the D-6.

Ravenhull · Post by **Ravenhull** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:24 am

In universe, the D6 is slightly shorter than the D7. Figure that if you were very detailed, you could go for the mod on your own. Me, I'd be lucky if I could get the 'head' glued back on the boom straight.

Wolverin61 · Post by **Wolverin61** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:26 am

Steve Cole wrote:I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.

Practically all of mine are the old type. Before the new ones came out, I used to think you held a major block of stock in superglue

DorianGray · Post by **DorianGray** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:48 am

Steve Cole wrote:Same mini is used for the D6, D7, D7C.

I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.

Unless your D7 model came in with the squadron box with the head broken off.

Post by **Steve Cole** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:08 pm

In which case, you email Leanna for a replacement.

wedge_hammersteel · Post by **wedge_hammersteel** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:00 pm

He already knew that as you told him before in another post.

DorianGray · Post by **DorianGray** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:14 am

I did? I did not see it. Don't speak for me or anyone else please.

In any case, I've managed to put it back together with some Games Workshop superglue meant for metal miniatures.

The D7s seem to have a tendency to have their neck section slightly bent whenever they come off the factory cast.

However, I love solid 1-figure as the multi-part miniatures sometimes have inconsistency in the assembly holes so it can get tricky with super glue.