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How can I tell the difference between a D6 and a D7

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 4:28 pm
by jmt
I got the Klingon Border Klingon ships pack yesterday. It includes, among other wonderfulness, a D6 and a D7. For the life of me, I can't tell 'em apart. Is there any difference in the models?

jmt

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:24 pm
by Scoutdad
It's the same basic hull, so you use the same miniature. For simplicity, you call this one a D6 and that one a D7.

If you're really anal retentive, you can modify the 2 minis to more accurately match the ship card. This is what I did with my SFB minis. I removed the phaser bumps from the rear hull that don't match the D6 and then I painted the Phaser 1's one shade of grey and the and the phaser 2's a differnt shade. Of course, to maintain the effect, I then had to paint the phaser 3's a third shade of grey.

And the scale of the mini is so small that you really can't tell the difference anyway... but I know they're different. :D

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:27 pm
by Predator06
Wing phasor mounts. (One tiny lump on the underside of each shoulder)

That is if the newer somewhat lamer casting of the D7 even bothers with such details. That would be the difference.

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:43 pm
by jmt
Okay, so I wasn't going blind - I'll check for the wing phasers. Thanks,
jmt

Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:46 pm
by dave
At least one iteration of these were labled as "D6/D7" on the blister card.
I'm painting my D6s a slightly lighter shade of grey and my D7C a slightly darker shade. That and labeling the bases.

Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:53 pm
by Steve Cole
Same mini is used for the D6, D7, D7C.

I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.

Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:19 am
by wedge_hammersteel
I believe there were various molds of the D7 made throughout SFB/FC. They are not all the same size. Just slight size differences. If you are able to find the different types, you could make the smaller one the D-6.

Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:24 am
by Ravenhull
In universe, the D6 is slightly shorter than the D7. Figure that if you were very detailed, you could go for the mod on your own. Me, I'd be lucky if I could get the 'head' glued back on the boom straight. :wink:

Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:26 am
by Wolverin61
Steve Cole wrote:I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.
Practically all of mine are the old type. Before the new ones came out, I used to think you held a major block of stock in superglue :wink:

Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:48 am
by DorianGray
Steve Cole wrote:Same mini is used for the D6, D7, D7C.

I prefer the new one-piece casting, but we did it because players said they wanted it that way. The pieces don't fall apart if there is only one piece.
Unless your D7 model came in with the squadron box with the head broken off. :cry:

Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:08 pm
by Steve Cole
In which case, you email Leanna for a replacement.

Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:00 pm
by wedge_hammersteel
He already knew that as you told him before in another post.

Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:14 am
by DorianGray
I did? I did not see it. Don't speak for me or anyone else please.

In any case, I've managed to put it back together with some Games Workshop superglue meant for metal miniatures.

The D7s seem to have a tendency to have their neck section slightly bent whenever they come off the factory cast.

However, I love solid 1-figure as the multi-part miniatures sometimes have inconsistency in the assembly holes so it can get tricky with super glue.