Federation Commander

Procopius · Ensign Joined: 08 Dec 2006 Posts: 17 Location: UK

I swear by Coat D'Arms. I don't use anything else. However, I am also in the UK (where Coat D' Arms are produced) and have no idea if/where they are available in the US.
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Endeavour to Persevere

Scoutdad · Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 2:05 am Post subject:

I have used the Reaper Pro paints and they are of first rate quality but I do still prefer the variety that is provided by the CeramCoat / Folk Art guys at the local big-box merchandisers.
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Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
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jpat · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:48 pm Post subject:

Hi, everyone. I've been lurking and reading this thread. I've appreciated and taken a good chunk of the advice on here, but I did have a question I was hoping someone would answer.

My wife, kind soul that she is, has been painting away on some of the minis, and so far, they're coming out really well. We're both new at this, though. The other day, I bought some GW spray "matte varnish" to use as a sealer/clear coating to protect the paint jobs (and stop me if I'm not using the right thing 'cause we haven't used it yet Smile

), but I also have some decals for some of the features on the ships. So the question is, as silly as it might be, sealer first before decals, correct?

-- Jim

Scoutdad · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 pm Post subject:

You have to coat the mini after the decals, or they tend to peel off with use.

I tend to clear coat before and after the decals. Since I have a tendency to use multiple, blended colors that take a while to finish, I often wind up with multiple coats of sealer.

The sealer is like the paint though, I find that several light coats work better than one thick coat. I tend to base coatand then seal. Afterwards, I apply any extravagant details (i.e. blended base coat, flames, tiger stripes, leopard spots, etc.) and then another light coat of sealer. After that, I paint the fine stuff (i.e., weapons, engines, windows, hatches, sensors, etc.) and then another coat of sealer.

Then decals, and 2 more light coats of sealer. It may sound like a lot, but each coat is more of a misting than a heavy shellacing and over the years (short of dropping them on a concrete floor), I've never had the paint on a miniature chip or peel off.

My two quatloos worth,
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Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF

jpat · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:29 pm Post subject:

Maybe that wasn't such a silly question after all. Thanks.

Scoutdad · Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:57 pm Post subject:

As I have told my Boy Scout troop and my kids repeatedly, "There is no such thing as a stupid question!."
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Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF

wrongway klingon · Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 10:56 am Post subject: Varnish

I found some acrylic cork tile floor sealant at the hardware store. you have to dilute it at least 50% and apply it in thin coats. it is phaser proof, well almost.

As for oil paint they are great for subtle blending but their drying time is slow compared to acrylic, so unless you are going to paint highly detailed portraits on starships (Romulans or Kzinti) give them a miss.

Scoutdad · Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:03 pm Post subject:

CeramCoat and Folk Art (both are cheap, generic brands available at Wal-Mart or any other big-box retailer) havea product called "Blending Gel" that is an extender for water-based acrylic paints. I have used it with Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, CeramCoat, Polly-S, and nearly everyother brand of acrylic paint. It doesn't provide the drying time of my oil paints, but depending on how much of it you mix withth acrylics - I've gotten as much as an hour drying time before.

That's wht I use to blend the colors on my Lyrans, my rmulans, my orions, and even the 'mechs and DND minis from those other games.
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Commander, Battlegroup Murfreesboro
Department Head, ACTASF

mjwest · Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:58 pm Post subject:

jmt · Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:12 pm Post subject:

I'd like to give a fair warning about GW Matte Sealant. It's very good and hard wearing, but it can cloud on you. Pay attention to the ambient conditions when you use it. If there's a great temperature difference between the can, the figure, and the air where you're spraying, the sealant will cloud on the miniature and give you a frosty finish. This can also happen if the humidity is too high.

The Armory flat sealant has the same problem, but I've never had it with Teastor's Dull Coat.

jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...
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jmt

Scoutdad · Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:05 pm Post subject:

Maldus · Lieutenant JG Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 26

A little trick from modelling tanks and jets....

Rather than use a sealant before you apply decals, you can use a fine coat of Future Floor Polish. This stuff is modeler's gold. It takes a while to cure but when it does, it makes a very smooth surface to avoid decal silvering. Then you can kill the glossy look with a matte sealant.

Future also makes clear parts shine better as it fills in the little scratches that often occur in such parts...not that this helps with starship minis, but there ya go.

Maldus
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Matthew Cicero
Heroism is endurance for one moment more.

jmt · Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:38 am Post subject:

Yes, Future is very nice.

My favorite use is "magic wash"- 1 part future to 20+ parts water. Use this to dilute your paint as it reduces the water surface tension. Add to inks to make a good tinting solution.
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jmt