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Paints and minis
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Procopius
Ensign


Joined: 08 Dec 2006
Posts: 17
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I swear by Coat D'Arms. I don't use anything else. However, I am also in the UK (where Coat D' Arms are produced) and have no idea if/where they are available in the US.
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4463
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used the Reaper Pro paints and they are of first rate quality but I do still prefer the variety that is provided by the CeramCoat / Folk Art guys at the local big-box merchandisers.
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jpat
Lieutenant Commander


Joined: 19 Jan 2007
Posts: 203
Location: Iowa City, IA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, everyone. I've been lurking and reading this thread. I've appreciated and taken a good chunk of the advice on here, but I did have a question I was hoping someone would answer.

My wife, kind soul that she is, has been painting away on some of the minis, and so far, they're coming out really well. We're both new at this, though. The other day, I bought some GW spray "matte varnish" to use as a sealer/clear coating to protect the paint jobs (and stop me if I'm not using the right thing 'cause we haven't used it yet Smile ), but I also have some decals for some of the features on the ships. So the question is, as silly as it might be, sealer first before decals, correct?

-- Jim
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4463
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to coat the mini after the decals, or they tend to peel off with use.

I tend to clear coat before and after the decals. Since I have a tendency to use multiple, blended colors that take a while to finish, I often wind up with multiple coats of sealer.

The sealer is like the paint though, I find that several light coats work better than one thick coat. I tend to base coatand then seal. Afterwards, I apply any extravagant details (i.e. blended base coat, flames, tiger stripes, leopard spots, etc.) and then another light coat of sealer. After that, I paint the fine stuff (i.e., weapons, engines, windows, hatches, sensors, etc.) and then another coat of sealer.

Then decals, and 2 more light coats of sealer. It may sound like a lot, but each coat is more of a misting than a heavy shellacing and over the years (short of dropping them on a concrete floor), I've never had the paint on a miniature chip or peel off.

My two quatloos worth,
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jpat
Lieutenant Commander


Joined: 19 Jan 2007
Posts: 203
Location: Iowa City, IA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe that wasn't such a silly question after all. Thanks.
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4463
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I have told my Boy Scout troop and my kids repeatedly, "There is no such thing as a stupid question!."
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wrongway klingon
Lieutenant JG


Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 46
Location: Cumbria, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 10:56 am    Post subject: Varnish Reply with quote

I found some acrylic cork tile floor sealant at the hardware store. you have to dilute it at least 50% and apply it in thin coats. it is phaser proof, well almost.

As for oil paint they are great for subtle blending but their drying time is slow compared to acrylic, so unless you are going to paint highly detailed portraits on starships (Romulans or Kzinti) give them a miss.
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Scoutdad
Commodore


Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4463
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CeramCoat and Folk Art (both are cheap, generic brands available at Wal-Mart or any other big-box retailer) havea product called "Blending Gel" that is an extender for water-based acrylic paints. I have used it with Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, CeramCoat, Polly-S, and nearly everyother brand of acrylic paint. It doesn't provide the drying time of my oil paints, but depending on how much of it you mix withth acrylics - I've gotten as much as an hour drying time before.

That's wht I use to blend the colors on my Lyrans, my rmulans, my orions, and even the 'mechs and DND minis from those other games.
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mjwest
Commodore


Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 3476
Location: Dallas, Texas

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scoutdad wrote:
As I have told my Boy Scout troop and my kids repeatedly, "There is no such thing as a stupid question!."


This is my standard retort for that statement.

(Do not click on the link if you are easily insulted by sarcastic humor. If you do click on the link, be sure to check the others out.)
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jmt
Lieutenant Commander


Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 394
Location: Plano, TX

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like to give a fair warning about GW Matte Sealant. It's very good and hard wearing, but it can cloud on you. Pay attention to the ambient conditions when you use it. If there's a great temperature difference between the can, the figure, and the air where you're spraying, the sealant will cloud on the miniature and give you a frosty finish. This can also happen if the humidity is too high.

The Armory flat sealant has the same problem, but I've never had it with Teastor's Dull Coat.

jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...
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Scoutdad
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Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 4463
Location: Middle Tennessee

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jmt wrote:
I'd like to give a fair warning about GW Matte Sealant. It's very good and hard wearing, but it can cloud on you...
jmt
..who's painted way to many figures in his life...


I didn't even think about that aspect of it. I've had to strip down and repaint way too many minis that were sprayed with GW sealant. I've never had that problem with teh Armory matte sealant adn much prefer he Testors brand "Dull-Coat". I just can't find the "Dull-Coat" in middle TN any longer, so I have to use the Armory stuff. That's one of the reasons for the multiple, light coats rather than one thick coat. It sems to help reduce the amount of frosting from the clear coat.
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Maldus
Ensign


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little trick from modelling tanks and jets....

Rather than use a sealant before you apply decals, you can use a fine coat of Future Floor Polish. This stuff is modeler's gold. It takes a while to cure but when it does, it makes a very smooth surface to avoid decal silvering. Then you can kill the glossy look with a matte sealant.

Future also makes clear parts shine better as it fills in the little scratches that often occur in such parts...not that this helps with starship minis, but there ya go.

Maldus
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jmt
Lieutenant Commander


Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 394
Location: Plano, TX

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Future is very nice.

My favorite use is "magic wash"- 1 part future to 20+ parts water. Use this to dilute your paint as it reduces the water surface tension. Add to inks to make a good tinting solution.
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